Product Details
＋It’s been 45 years since the creation of the original and this now classic piece, is more popular than ever. First unveiled by Audemars Piguet in the 1970s and designed by Gerald Genta, who incidentally designed the Patek Philippe Nautilus amongst others, the Royal Oak Ref. 5402 has become a cultural icon due to its distinctive features and its role as a pioneer for high-end luxury sports watches.
The early 1970s was a time of great change within the watch industry, where the concept of a luxury watch in steel was a truly revolutionary idea. As a result of this, introduced both the ‘BA’ (solid gold) and ’SA’ (steel/gold) variants of the Ref. 5402, shortly after the initial steel pieces, owing to client demand. Early Royal Oak watches from the early 1970s are highly-sought by collectors, owing to their rarity and unique place in the brand’s history. The reference 5402 Royal Oak is often referred to as ‘Jumbo’, on account of its relatively imposing size for the period.
This steel/gold, Royal Oak 5402SA is the perfect balance between utilitarian function and elegant design, with yellow-gold indexes, centre-links and bezel. The case and bracelet are excellently finished, with angular, beveled and polished edges. The polished screws, bezel and case edges fantastically-contrast with the brushed surface of the case and bracelet. At 39mm in diameter, and only 7mm thick, this Royal Oak 5402SA case is a beautiful twist of perspectives and size. The outer-case back correctly displays the unique serial number (No. 5XX), of only 951 steel/gold pieces produced in total.
This 5402SA carries the ‘AP’ logo at 12 o’clock, typical of later examples (from mid-400 serial onwards). The weaving pattern of the ‘tapisserie’ pattern dial, forming the square and lozenge motif, alters the 'faded' grey coloration of the dial as it reflects light from different angles, with subtle patina around the Audemars Piguet logo. The dial further features a date aperture at 3 o’clock and luminous yellow-gold hands and hour markers - the latter, aged to a beautiful golden tone. At 6 o’clock, a “Swiss” marking is visible.
The Royal Oak 5402 is powered by the ultra-thin AP caliber 2121, derived from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s legendary ultra-thin JLC 920 calibre movement. The caliber 2121 was based on the caliber 2120, an initial project of in 1967, funded and contributed by Audemars Piguet, and famous for its adoption by Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. The ultra-thin automatic 2121 calibre features 36 working jewels, Gyromax balance and four ruby wheels to support the full-diameter rotor, which runs on a beryllium rail for stability. The AP calibre 2121 remains the thinnest full-rotor self-winding movement in the world, considered by many as one of the most stunningly refined and technically impressive wrist-watch movements ever made.
The watch comes fully-equipped with its original two-tone bracelet and clasp (end-links stamped D4, clasp signed 'AP’), original box and Archive Extract from Audemars Piguet. The watch is further accompanied by a servicing receipt from Audemars Piguet (dated 2018).
Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment only.
The early 1970s was a time of great change within the watch industry, where the concept of a luxury watch in steel was a truly revolutionary idea. As a result of this, introduced both the ‘BA’ (solid gold) and ’SA’ (steel/gold) variants of the Ref. 5402, shortly after the initial steel pieces, owing to client demand. Early Royal Oak watches from the early 1970s are highly-sought by collectors, owing to their rarity and unique place in the brand’s history. The reference 5402 Royal Oak is often referred to as ‘Jumbo’, on account of its relatively imposing size for the period.
This steel/gold, Royal Oak 5402SA is the perfect balance between utilitarian function and elegant design, with yellow-gold indexes, centre-links and bezel. The case and bracelet are excellently finished, with angular, beveled and polished edges. The polished screws, bezel and case edges fantastically-contrast with the brushed surface of the case and bracelet. At 39mm in diameter, and only 7mm thick, this Royal Oak 5402SA case is a beautiful twist of perspectives and size. The outer-case back correctly displays the unique serial number (No. 5XX), of only 951 steel/gold pieces produced in total.
This 5402SA carries the ‘AP’ logo at 12 o’clock, typical of later examples (from mid-400 serial onwards). The weaving pattern of the ‘tapisserie’ pattern dial, forming the square and lozenge motif, alters the 'faded' grey coloration of the dial as it reflects light from different angles, with subtle patina around the Audemars Piguet logo. The dial further features a date aperture at 3 o’clock and luminous yellow-gold hands and hour markers - the latter, aged to a beautiful golden tone. At 6 o’clock, a “Swiss” marking is visible.
The Royal Oak 5402 is powered by the ultra-thin AP caliber 2121, derived from Jaeger-LeCoultre’s legendary ultra-thin JLC 920 calibre movement. The caliber 2121 was based on the caliber 2120, an initial project of in 1967, funded and contributed by Audemars Piguet, and famous for its adoption by Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. The ultra-thin automatic 2121 calibre features 36 working jewels, Gyromax balance and four ruby wheels to support the full-diameter rotor, which runs on a beryllium rail for stability. The AP calibre 2121 remains the thinnest full-rotor self-winding movement in the world, considered by many as one of the most stunningly refined and technically impressive wrist-watch movements ever made.
The watch comes fully-equipped with its original two-tone bracelet and clasp (end-links stamped D4, clasp signed 'AP’), original box and Archive Extract from Audemars Piguet. The watch is further accompanied by a servicing receipt from Audemars Piguet (dated 2018).
Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment only.
Closer look
| Brand: | Audemars Piguet |
| Model: | Royal Oak Ref. 5402SA |
| Movement: | mechanical automatic AP Caliber 2121 |
| Functions: | date, hours, minutes |
| Features: | unrestored, ‘tapisserie’ pattern dial |
| Case: | 39 mm stainless steel/yellow gold |
| Crystal: | sapphire |
| Bracelet: | stainless steel/yellow gold AP-stamped bracelet |
| Year: | 1979 |
| Box & papers: | box, Archive Extract, Audemars Piguet servicing receipt |
This Audemars Piguet Ref. 5402SA comes with its original box, along with an Extract from the Archives from AP. The case and bracelet are excellently finished, with angular, beveled, polished and granular surfaces. Both the case and bracelet are original to the watch, as detailed in the Archive Extract. The bracelet has very little stretch, with 20 links (including 4 removable ones). Unusually, though fully-serviced by Audemars Piguet (in 2018), this example retains all of its original features, including its yellow-gold hands, bracelet, clasp and unsigned crown. The 2120/2802 calibre movement of this 5402SA comes with a servicing guarantee from Audemars Piguet and two-year warranty from A Collected Man.
