Sold in 2023, this rose gold Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton* is a boutique exclusive that combines the utilitarian features of a sportswatch with luxurious metal and skeletonised dial, exploring the limits of what is possible for these pieces. Powered by the ultra-slim calibre 1120QP, the watch is an excellent find for any collector looking for a bold piece that celebrates its identity in an exciting fashion.

The Overseas collection was first introduced in 1996, though the roots of the Overseas go back all the way to 1977, with the introduction of the reference . The 222 is one of Vacheron Constantin’s most recognisable watches, due to its distinctive features and its contribution as a pioneer for high-end luxury sports watches, alongside the Royal Oak and the Nautilus. The overall philosophy and several design features of the 222 - such as the notched bezel, angular integrated bracelet, and overall luxurious yet industrial feel, have been transmitted to the Overseas collection.
 
Over the past few decades, there has been an explosion of interest in the integrated bracelet sportswatch, resulting in an increase in the popularity of this genre of watch and growing mass-market appeal. Sold in 2023, this rose gold Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton is a boutique exclusive that represents a bit of a paradox, with its all-gold case and extravagantly skeletonised dial - it is a symbol of the evolution of these once utilitarian objects into something different, testing the boundaries of what is possible with a piece like this.
 
The watch features a bold tonneau-style case at 41.5mm in diameter with broad shoulders and an integrated rose gold bracelet, with sharp, internal angles in-between the links, which are polished by hand. The bezel has a notched profile, reminiscent of the shape of a Malte Cross, the emblem of Vacheron Constantin. The overall design is less raw than previous iterations of the Overseas and certainly more elegant, due in part to the thinness of the case, which measures only 8.1mm in height; a rather impressive feat, considering that despite featuring an antimagnetic case and a perpetual calendar module, it is only half of a millimetre thicker than the Overseas Ultra-Thin. Overall, the case manages to perfectly balance a rugged, industrial feel with a more refined, luxurious one.
 
In a layout reminiscent of the neo-vintage reference 43032, there are three sub-dials in white with black printed information for the perpetual calendar indications on this Overseas, as well as a moonphase subdial. The opaque subdials are intended to improve readability. The Leap Year indication on this particular watch varies slightly from other perpetual calendars, with a single hand being used for both the month and Leap Year cycle, which makes a full revolution every four years. In keeping with the skeletonised theme, moonphase is slightly translucent, allowing you to glimpse both moons beneath the clouds, while adding a certain serenity to what might have been an overly-busy dial. The deep blue moonphase disc is very lightly textured and decorated with engraved constellations and hand-painted stars. A white minute track runs around the edges of the dial, framing the skeletonised centre and information, while the indexes and hands are coated with Super-Luminova for increased visibility in the dark.
 
The Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton is powered by the ultra-slim calibre 1120 QP, based on the historical calibre 1121 which powered the Vacheron Constantin 222, with an additional perpetual calendar module built on top. The caliber 1121 was based on the caliber 2120, an initial project of Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1967, famous for its adoption by Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. The Vacheron calibre 1121 remains one of the thinnest full-rotor self-winding movements in the world, considered by many as one of the most stunningly refined and technically impressive wrist-watch movements ever made. The caliber 1120 QP in this watch features a soft iron inner ring, to give protection against magnetic fields, and is beautifully finished to Geneva Seal standards, with a 22-carat gold rotor decorated in a wind rose motif.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar is in very good overall condition. The brushed and polished finish throughout the case, bracelet, and bezel shows very light signs of wear and only on the extreme surface of the material, consistent with minimal wear over time. More specifically, light marks on the lugs as commonly found with removable bracelets, and on the side of the upper right lug, equally on the very surface of the material. The dial, hands, and skeletonised movement are free from any signs of imperfections. On the caseback, bracelet, and buckle, the hallmarks are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a lifetime guarantee of authenticity from A Collected Man as well as the remaining duration of the manufacturer warranty from Vacheron Constantin.